Fruit trees
Apple, pear, cherry, sour cherry, peach, apricot and plum. The rootstock decides tree size, spacing and the year of first harvest.
- apple
- cherry
- peach
- apricot
Saplings · Fruit trees · Garden plants
The right sapling starts with the right season and the right soil
ONLINE FİDAN is an online nursery project that gathers the decisions behind fruit trees, olive saplings, nut species and ornamental plants — from variety and rootstock to planting time — into one reference.
Categories
Which sapling for which garden?
A category is not only a product group — it is a different care regime. An orchard and a landscape planting do not share the same watering and pruning needs.
Olive saplings
Varieties such as Gemlik, Ayvalık and Memecik split by table or oil purpose. Young trees need shelter from frost and wind in their first years.
- gemlik
- ayvalık
- table
- oil
Nut species
Walnut, almond, hazelnut and pistachio. Their taproot makes planting depth and hole size more critical than in other groups.
- walnut
- almond
- hazelnut
Vines
Table and wine grape varieties. The training system has to be decided at planting, not afterwards.
- table grapes
- vines
- training system
Ornamentals and shrubs
Privet, laurel, juniper, thuja and roses. Used as hedging, screening or a focal plant, each asks for a different pruning discipline.
- hedging
- roses
- thuja
Garden and landscape plants
Ground cover, perennials and shade trees. Grouping plants with similar water needs lowers irrigation cost across a landscape.
- ground cover
- shade trees
- landscape
Planting calendar
When should saplings be planted?
Timing follows the root form and the severity of the local winter. The general rule: bare-root while dormant, container-grown at any time outside high summer.
| Sapling type | Window | What to watch |
|---|---|---|
| Bare-root fruit trees | November – March (leaf fall to bud break) | Avoid frozen ground and waterlogged days |
| Container-grown | Year round, outside high summer | Plant without breaking the root ball; transplant stress is low |
| Olive saplings | Spring; autumn in mild regions | Protect young trees from frost and wind in the first winter |
| Walnut, almond, hazelnut | December – February | The taproot needs a deep, generous hole |
| Vines | February – April | Decide training system and row spacing in advance |
| Ornamental shrubs (container) | Autumn preferred | Autumn planting lets roots establish over winter |
These windows are a general frame for Türkiye; in high-altitude regions with hard winters, spring planting is safer.
Buying guide
Five things that decide the purchase
A sapling looks like a small line item, but a wrong choice shows up five years later. Settle these points before buying.
Grafted or seedling?
A grafted sapling puts a known variety on a known rootstock, so fruit characteristics are predictable. A seedling grown from stone or pip offers no guarantee on fruit quality or when it will bear. For anyone planting an orchard, grafted is the right answer.
Rootstock decides tree size
Dwarfing rootstock brings earlier fruit and easier harvest, but needs support and steady irrigation. Seedling rootstock bears later while tolerating drought and difficult soil better. Spacing follows from that decision.
Container-grown or bare-root?
Bare-root is more economical in the dormant season and roots start directly in the soil. Container-grown widens the planting window and reduces transplant shock — the choice when planting out of season.
Certified and standard grades
Saplings in Türkiye are graded by production control; the certified grade offers stronger assurance on varietal accuracy and plant health. The label should carry variety, rootstock, producer and grade.
Chilling requirement and pollination
Every variety needs a certain amount of winter cold; if that is not met, flowering becomes erratic. Most cherry, apple and almond varieties also need a compatible pollinator nearby to set fruit.
Planting and care
The first year sets the life of the tree
In its first season the aim is not fruit but root system. Get these five steps right and later years need far less intervention.
Hole and soil
Dig wide enough for the roots to sit without bending, and backfill with the excavated soil mixed with well-rotted organic matter.
Planting depth
The graft union stays above soil level. Planting too deep lets the scion root and cancels the effect of the rootstock.
First watering
Water generously straight after planting. The purpose is not irrigation but closing the air pockets between roots and soil.
Formative pruning
The crown is shaped in the first year. Balanced branching gives a tree that catches light and is easy to harvest.
Mulch and weeds
Mulch spread clear of the trunk holds soil moisture and removes competition for water around a young tree.
Sapling prices
What actually sets the price
Sapling prices are not fixed: age, species and production method create wide ranges even within one species. No price list is published here — the variables behind the price are.
What moves the price
- Species and variety: newer, in-demand varieties cost more
- Rootstock: dwarfing and clonal rootstocks cost more than seedling stock
- Age and size: there is a clear gap between a one and a two-year-old sapling
- Production method: container-grown carries more cost than bare-root
- Grade: certified production includes the cost of extra control
- Season and demand: prices rise in the peak weeks of the planting season
- Transport: packaging and transit time for living material feed into cost
The real cost of a cheap sapling
An unlabelled sapling of unverifiable variety does not cost what you paid for it; it costs the three to five years lost when it fails to bear what you expected. Saplings are a small share of the investment in an orchard and the largest share of the outcome.
Frequently asked
About choosing and planting saplings
The most common questions, with short and usable answers.
When is the best time to plant?
For bare-root saplings, the dormant window from November to March. Container-grown saplings can go in year round outside high summer. In high-altitude regions with hard winters, spring is safer.
Container-grown or bare-root — which is better?
Both are good in the right conditions. Bare-root is more economical in season; container-grown allows out-of-season planting and reduces transplant shock.
Why are grafted saplings recommended?
With a grafted sapling the variety is known, so flavour, size and ripening time are predictable. A seedling guarantees none of that.
How long before a sapling bears fruit?
It depends on species and rootstock. Apple and pear on dwarfing rootstock usually give a first crop in 2–3 years.
Cherry and peach take 3–4 years, olive 3–5 years, and walnut anywhere from 4 to 7 years depending on rootstock and variety.
Will a single tree bear fruit, or is a pollinator needed?
Many cherry, apple, pear and almond varieties are self-incompatible and need a compatible pollinator nearby. Most peach, apricot and fig varieties are self-fertile.
What should you check when buying saplings online?
That the label states variety and rootstock, that roots are packed in moisture-retaining material, that transit time is short, and that you can inspect the plants on arrival.
Is ONLINE FİDAN selling today?
No. ONLINE FİDAN is being developed as an online nursery concept and information resource. There is no pricing, stock, ordering or shipping system behind this site.
About this digital project
About the ONLINE FİDAN brand and domain
ONLINE FİDAN is a brand, concept and domain project positioned in the nursery and garden plant category. For acquisition, partnership or business proposals regarding this brand, project or domain, contact us.
All conversations are handled in confidence.